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nitrofish said:
eyeteabaggedher said:
thanks for info.. But I have one question about sand filters..are the worth the try..
you mean the fludized bed filters?
is that the one they use in marine set ups, it looks like sand or fine gravel churning around in cannisters?
 

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way to go now I know a little more about filter. Thanks............
 

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you did a great helluva job rbpnut. got me new inputs!


and yes, more than enough filtration is best.
 

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Thanks Guys ! You convinced me on getting 1 more filter for my 55 gal
. I have one already but I think it's not doing a good job, so i'll get another one. What filter would you guys recommend? or should i stick to the penguin?
 

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the sand filter is also called a fluidized bed filter. its basicly just sand that has water flowing through it to allow more oxygen and water contact with the bacteria living on the sand. they had a few at a fish shop i worked at for our salt water and freshwater systems. they work really well but a wet/dry system is alot easier to maintain and even build your self. i think they are just as efficient and i know they are more widely used.
 

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sprinter78 said:
So for a 55 g tank, in order for the water to be cycled 4 - 5 time an hour, would I need something like a Penguin 330? Not sure what the 330 means. im in the market for a 55g and just trying to figure out what I will need.... Already have a 20 g but that was given to me.
Here is how the number system workes.

Power Filters:
Penguins, Emperors, Aqua Clear, Liberty - Number is how many Gallons Per Hour the pump will move (not necisarily clean).

Example: A Penguin 330 will pump 330 GPH
An Emporer 400 will pump 400 GPH

Some pumps like TetraTec 500 have a 500 number but only pump 300GPH.

Canister Filter:
Via Aqua are rated like Penquin Power Filters, in GPH.

Example: Via Aqua 750 will pump 750GPH

Fluval are not rated the same as Via Aqua. A Fluval 404 only pumps 340GPH, so my guess is they (Fluval) rate their pumps in Liters.?.

Summary: Check the spects on what filter your going to use. Just cause it says 500 (like the Tetra Tec 500) doesn't mean it will pump 500GPH.
 

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sprinter78 said:
So for a 55 g tank, in order for the water to be cycled 4 - 5 time an hour, would I need something like a Penguin 330? Not sure what the 330 means. im in the market for a 55g and just trying to figure out what I will need.... Already have a 20 g but that was given to me.
One more thing.

A Penguin 330 would be more than enough for a 55 gallon tank.

Here is the math: For those who want/care to know.

GPH/Gallon Tank = Times Per Hour

Penguin 330
75 gallon tank

Formula:
330/75= 4.4

4.4 Times per hour a 75 gallon tank would be cycled.

Penguin 330
55 gallon tank

Formula:
330/55 = 6

6 Times per hou a 55 gallon tank would be cycled.
 

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legalize said:
the sand filter is also called a fluidized bed filter. its basicly just sand that has water flowing through it to allow more oxygen and water contact with the bacteria living on the sand. they had a few at a fish shop i worked at for our salt water and freshwater systems. they work really well but a wet/dry system is alot easier to maintain and even build your self. i think they are just as efficient and i know they are more widely used.
i dissagree.

well, i do agree that fluidized bed filters (i.e. liquidized, sand filters) are just as efficient, biologically speaking, if not more compared to traditional wet/drys. what i disagree about is that when set up properly, fluidized bed filters provide a tremendous amount of bio filtration with little to almost no upkeep. the only thing that you really have to do is make sure that your powerhead isn't clogged, which is somethign you should normally be doing anyway. also, fluidized bed filters that can bio filter up to 500 gal tanks
can be bought on ebay for $50 +s/h, including media. just add a pump. (EBAY linky) if you understand the dynamics and mechanisms to fluidized bed filters, you can strip it down to what it really needs and it'll be very cheap. imagine how much a w/d that coudl filter a 500gal tank would be...o_O. in conclusion, fluidized bed filters are relatively low maintinence as well as cost effective.

one last thing to note is that they are almost purely biological filtration. you'll still need mechanical filtration via ac500 or emp400, etc...

i thought it'd also be prudent of me to add that i actually am running one, and not just talking from here say.
 

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Thats cool when you said a filter should run threw your tank 3 to 4 times an hour. Do you mean if i have a 30 gallon tank i should get a 90 gallon filter? Also, What is the best type of filter to get? I am thinking about getting a canister.
 

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IMO the best filtration you can have is a wet/dry...they are the most efficient for biological filtration and can filter large amounts of water...Wet/dry filters serve as a good purpose for the beneficial nitryfying bacteria as it passes through an inert medium.....I also like the cannister filters too because they have all three stages and you can't really knock that....my ehiem classic 2217 has done nothing, but work great for me.......... For a 30G aquarium, i'm pretty positive you won't be needding wet/dry :lmao.... I'd just go with an AC 500 in a 30G cause i really like to over filter all my tanks....for my 29G right now i have an emp 400 and emp 280 on there and my water quality is literally perfect....you could also go with a smaller cannister filter on a 30G if you wanted to, but the only down side to canny filters is the $$$$$$ you spend on them
 

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Filtering your tanks water 3-4 times an hour means that every gallon of water should be filtered 3-4 times per hour... so take your gallonage... aka 55... and multiply it by 3-4. Then find a filter that filters that many gallons per hour.
 

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Judazzz said:
Good post, rbP NUT


One added remark about chemical filtration: in some cases (carbon, for instance) it's also known as adsorbtive filtration, since the filter media adsorbs (chemically binds) certain chemicals to it, thereby removing it from the water.
I'm not 100% sure about this, but I think it happens on the surface of the media, and therefore it will eventually loose its adsorbtive characteristics, because no active surface area is available for binding anymore.
One more thing: filtering over peat, coral etc. is also called chemical filtration, since it will alter your water's perimeters.
I'm going to pin this for a while, for reference: if anyone else has to add anything to this, or sees something wrong, don't hesitate to post it here - maybe eventually, it will contain enough adequate information to turn it into an article for the Info Section...
[snapback]267647[/snapback]​
if you had to choose between the three differant kinds which one would you perfer the best
 

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dirty colombian said:
Thats cool when you said a filter should run threw your tank 3 to 4 times an hour. Do you mean if i have a 30 gallon tank i should get a 90 gallon filter? Also, What is the best type of filter to get? I am thinking about getting a canister.
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AC500 filters just as much as some canisters.
 

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What do you guys think about the "105" gallon aqua clear....im a noob but i bought one.. should i have not? I have a 90 gallon tank...
 
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