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The Ball Python


DC cichlids awesome pastel ball


droacofish's stunning ball python

Scientific name: Python regius
Common name: ball python
Synonyms: royal python
Genus: Python
Order: Squamata
Class Reptilia
Family: Boidae

Origin: west Africa

Selecting your ball python- some good guidelines to follow when choosing a ball python as a pet are 1. Make sure animal has clear firm skin 2. Clear eyes 3. Clear vent 4. Rounded body shape 5. Actively flicks tough when being handled 6. Snake should be aware of surroundings

Size: to 4 feet, sometimes 5 feet

Life span- 20-30 years, one lived for 48 years at philadephia zoo

Minimum Tank Size: for an adult 30+ gallons, the tank must also be securely fastened because snakes are known for being escape artists.

Substrate- a good substrate for balls is paper towels, they can be quickly removed and replaced when soiled, after your animal is established you may want a more decorative substrate, avoid pine shavings as these may become logged in you animals thought when feeding, Astroturf is cheap and effective also. aspen is a popualr and great susbstrate for balls, you may want to change you aspen shaveings every month to keep them clean for your ball.

Heating- A basking lamp is not required for balls, these may hurt your ball if it comes in contact with it, out of the tank under tank heaters would be best because of this, the air throughout the enclosure should be at 80-85F, the basking area should be at 90F, at night the coolest side should not drop below 75F, and the basking side 80F

Water- keeping a water bowl in your enclosure is important, the snake will use it for drinking, soaking and sometimes defecating, change water daily, and when soiled, the water is especially important while the snake is beginning to shed.

Hiding spot- ball pythons need a good hiding place in there enclosure, a half log or a cardboard box that the snake can fit it's entire body into is needed, they use these for sleep and the hiding places relive stress that the snake may get. clay pots also make great hideing spots

Feeding: after your snake has acclimated to its new enclosure for a few weeks now it's time for feeding. If your snake is a hatchling (15 inches in length) start it off with a 1 week old pre killed fuzzy mouse. If hatchling is smaller try 5 day old fuzzy and so on. Older balls can eat pre killed mice, stay away from live mice if you can, and never leave a live mouse in with you snake in a few days because this can seriously harm your snake because live mice can bite. Also note that some ball pythons are finky eaters, if a snake isn't eating you shouldn't worry too much, many snakes have long periods of fasting, some fasting periods have lasted a year even. a good thing for full grown balls to eat is full grown pre killed rats.

a pic of furious piranah's ball constricting a mouse

Also- Also- Ball python's grow about 1 foot every year. Depending on the animal and how often fed, etc. They are usually full grown by the third year, some are faster, some slower. The name ball python comes from the ball shape they coil themselves into.

Other Variants: ball pythons come in a huge variety of colors and varieties including but not limited to-

Albino, Striped, Spider, Fire Ball, Pastel, Pied, Ghost, Leucistic, and soooooooooooooooooooo many more, some of theses amazing snakes command prices of $25,000+

These snakes are great as pets, but are responsible and don't impulse buy. Read all of this carefully before buying one.

Sorces and great info-
clicky
clicky
click
clcik
clciky

also anybody with ball pythons I would appresite pics that I could use, also I was thinking about adding breeding to the profile should i? any other comments welcome
 

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Definately a good read and a clear and informative profile, nice!


* Topic moved to the Non-Piranha Information Center
 

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Just want to let you know how I feel on your info, and things I think you should change or think over.

"Size: to 4 feet, sometimes 5 feet"

Females have been known to hit 6 feet, but usually top out at 5 feet. Males usually top at 3-4 feet.

_____________________________________

"Substrate- a good substrate for balls is paper towels, they can be quickly removed and replaced when soiled, after your animal is established you may want a more decorative substrate, avoid pine and aspen shavings as these may become logged in you animals thought when feeding, Astroturf is cheap and effective also."

I use aspen along with many others that keep ball pythons. There is nothing wrong with it, many breeders use it but pine is something you should stay away from. Aspen can be spot cleaned when soiled, and I replace all aspen after a month.

_____________________________________

"Heating- A basking lamp is required for balls, the air throughout the enclosure should be at 80-85F, the basking area should be at 90F, at night the coolest side should not drop below 75F, and the basking side 80F"

Basking lamps are not required. They can be very dangerous and have set many things on fire. An under tank heater is the best thing to use as the snake can lie on it for heat, (ONLY USE UNDER - NOT INSIDE THE CAGE) Only use heaters with a dimmer or thermostat. I use a Helix and its the best investment I have made for my snakes.

You have the temps perfect. However some people have hot spots of 95. I use 90 all day, everyday. Tell people 90 and they wont burn their snakes.

______________________________________

"Water- keeping a water bowl in your enclosure is important, the snake will use it for drinking, soaking and sometimes defecating, change water when soiled, the water is especially important while the snake is beginning to shed."

Change the water daily, or as often as possible, like with any other animal. How would you like drink the water you just showered in?

______________________________________

"Hiding spot- ball pythons need a good hiding place in there enclosure, a half log or a cardboard box that the snake can fit it's entire body into is needed, they use these for sleep and the hiding places relive stress that the snake may get."

Clay pots work great. They are round and found in many sizes to fit your snake just right. They usually come with a small hole in the bottom middle and this can be made bigger, just make sure you sand after so there are no sharp edges. Its what I use with my snakes up to 500 grams. After that I find they don't need one, but if they start to refuse food, you might want to throw a hide in.
______________________________________

Also- Ball python's grow about 1 foot every year. Depending on the animal and how often fed, etc. They are usually full grown by the third year, some are faster, some slower. The name ball python comes from the ball shape they coil themselves into.

-Quick Change-

______________________________________

I find it disturbing how people that use the internet daily still get this stuff wrong, and their pets get injured or end up dead. There are thousands of pages out there that will tell you about every type of animal. Before you buy, make sure you have the perfect setup. After all, it could ruin your life or the animals.

Anyways, good job ----------XR----------. You might want to tell people about the difference in buying Captive bred or Wild Caught, and the problems that lead with wild caught snakes. Also, adult balls can eat small or medium rats. Adult mice are fine but I find them to be to small. A rat for a full grown ball is a much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just want to let you know how I feel on your info, and things I think you should change or think over.

"Size: to 4 feet, sometimes 5 feet"

Females have been known to hit 6 feet, but usually top out at 5 feet. Males usually top at 3-4 feet.

_____________________________________

"Substrate- a good substrate for balls is paper towels, they can be quickly removed and replaced when soiled, after your animal is established you may want a more decorative substrate, avoid pine and aspen shavings as these may become logged in you animals thought when feeding, Astroturf is cheap and effective also."

I use aspen along with many others that keep ball pythons. There is nothing wrong with it, many breeders use it but pine is something you should stay away from. Aspen can be spot cleaned when soiled, and I replace all aspen after a month.

_____________________________________

"Heating- A basking lamp is required for balls, the air throughout the enclosure should be at 80-85F, the basking area should be at 90F, at night the coolest side should not drop below 75F, and the basking side 80F"

Basking lamps are not required. They can be very dangerous and have set many things on fire. An under tank heater is the best thing to use as the snake can lie on it for heat, (ONLY USE UNDER - NOT INSIDE THE CAGE) Only use heaters with a dimmer or thermostat. I use a Helix and its the best investment I have made for my snakes.

You have the temps perfect. However some people have hot spots of 95. I use 90 all day, everyday. Tell people 90 and they wont burn their snakes.

______________________________________

"Water- keeping a water bowl in your enclosure is important, the snake will use it for drinking, soaking and sometimes defecating, change water when soiled, the water is especially important while the snake is beginning to shed."

Change the water daily, or as often as possible, like with any other animal. How would you like drink the water you just showered in?

______________________________________

"Hiding spot- ball pythons need a good hiding place in there enclosure, a half log or a cardboard box that the snake can fit it's entire body into is needed, they use these for sleep and the hiding places relive stress that the snake may get."

Clay pots work great. They are round and found in many sizes to fit your snake just right. They usually come with a small hole in the bottom middle and this can be made bigger, just make sure you sand after so there are no sharp edges. Its what I use with my snakes up to 500 grams. After that I find they don't need one, but if they start to refuse food, you might want to throw a hide in.
______________________________________

Also- Ball python's grow about 1 foot every year. Depending on the animal and how often fed, etc. They are usually full grown by the third year, some are faster, some slower. The name ball python comes from the ball shape they coil themselves into.

-Quick Change-

______________________________________

I find it disturbing how people that use the internet daily still get this stuff wrong, and their pets get injured or end up dead. There are thousands of pages out there that will tell you about every type of animal. Before you buy, make sure you have the perfect setup. After all, it could ruin your life or the animals.

Anyways, good job ----------XR----------. You might want to tell people about the difference in buying Captive bred or Wild Caught, and the problems that lead with wild caught snakes. Also, adult balls can eat small or medium rats. Adult mice are fine but I find them to be to small. A rat for a full grown ball is a much better.
thanks for the tips I'll change it
 

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If you want to add breeding I would suggest looking at Mark Mandics website. He has a page done up with some great information, however it might be worth just linking up his site because it doesn't get any better than that, and also gets his website more hits, and maybe sales. I dont think he would refuse.

Check his breeding webpage out here!
 
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