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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so as you know from the title I have ammonia present in tap water. I have recently decided to figure out why i have such a bad problem with ammonia in my tanks... AND so i start at the source, my faucet. I decided to check the water coming out through a 10" carbon block filter. Perhaps the flow rate is to high for it to have contact time but it still has about 1ppm maybe more, the colors in the test tube are hard to match to the cards. anyways after this test i decided to pour some prime in the bucket. and prime as says on the bottle and everyone else tells me should handle it. NOPE still have ammonia present, bout .5ppm or so. And this is with way more prime than is needed for the 2.5 gallons of water I had in the bucket. ANYONE please give me some incite as to what I can do to get good water for the water changes that are apparently going to do no good on gettin out the ammonia. My tanks been up for a while now but I dont believe has ever been able to go through a good cycle because of the issues with ammonia from the start. Ph is right close to 7 nitrites and nitrates are very low and ammonia is through the roof almost always, im worried about this situation and need some better info than "hey use prime and a water change every day" no its not from overfeeding as ive been underfeeding the poor guys for a while tryin to get this under control. Ive decided to stop givin shrimp as its been a mess and have to vaccuum the remains out as soon as they are finished eating. anyways if you can help me or know someone who can please post or message me at [email protected] i have msn messenger to chat or you can email/post/pm here. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
haha, currently ive got an aquaclear 110, and two aquatech 30-60g filters on it. the aquaclear has regular carbon, foam, bio media in it, the aquatechs have regular carbon in one, and ammo chips in the other currently tryin to get this out. not working...

by the way thats the 75 with the larger rbps. the hollandi has a penguin 350 on it, the other 75 with 1" rbps has a catalina 1000 canister and a powerhead with foam. the 47g has an aquaclear 110. I have the same problem in different degrees on all the tanks but the big rbps seem to be the worst so far as they produce alot of waste and just add to the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
by the way, ive never noticed much of a problem with the other tanks, the only way i realized it was an issue with rbp's is because i finally invested in a larger test kit that included ammonia and what do you know it was present and harmful the whole time. the big rbps will get to scratching or flashin every now and again if i havent changed water in a few days, because i do seem to be able to lower the ammonia just a hair when i do 30g water change out of the 75 but definately not enough of a difference in being made
 

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Only other possibility I can think of right now is that prime maybe interacting with your tap and giving you false readings, OR, prime may actually be responsible for breaking the cholramine bond and therefore releasing ammonia in the process.
 

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I just started using Prime after hearing such great reviews about it. From what I understand, Prime CONVERTS ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank's biofilter. I also understand that the tests will still show ammonia present even with the Prime added. It sort of locks up the ammonia for a while as your biofilter does it's thing... hence the ammonia present readings. I'm sure that others with more experience will chime in with their views.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I sure hope someone can help me out with this as Im havin a heck of a time dealing with it. If it truly is a non toxic form then i have to figure out why the p's are flashing from time to time, but it seems to go away with water changes. I dont know. Im going to try a few things out, as well as addin a biowheel into the setup of thier tank. See if i cant get a bit better bio filtration goin on. thanks for the help though and anyone else with info please do help
by the way im using red sea tests with a powder and then a liquid as ive read in different places that diff tests will actually measure different ammonia such as toxic and nontoxic where others only read toxic ammonia. thanks
 

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Ammonia in tap water is pretty common. Chloramines is a combination of chlorine and ammonia. If your filters were cycled properly they should be able to handle this with no problem in conjunction with a conditioner. Also make sure you are using a salicylate based ammonia test kit since nessler based ones will give off false readings with many conditioners.
 

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Ammonia in tap water is pretty common. Chloramines is a combination of chlorine and ammonia. If your filters were cycled properly they should be able to handle this with no problem in conjunction with a conditioner. Also make sure you are using a salicylate based ammonia test kit since nessler based ones will give off false readings with many conditioners.


Harry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How do i know which it is. Its a red sea fresh lab. The powder says sodium nitroprusside and the liquid drops say sodium hydroxide. if thats any help to find out if im getting false readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well we've come up with a solution to adding ammonia with every water change. I do water softeners/ro's/dialysis systems for a living and have decided to take some pretty big measures. I cannot put and ro in my house *(which would solve my problem..) as my landlord wont allow me to install it, but I CAN have a 1/2 cubic foot carbon tank that attaches to any faucet or hydrant in the house. We are going to be setting up a small version of what is used in dialysis centers (aka hospital grade carbon cleaning tank). The flow isnt extremely fast, but it will be much faster than waitin for an ro anyways. It is high quality carbon that will take any chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia as well as many other things out as these tanks have to clean water going into peoples blood stream. sooo all in all it will be a little more complicated than I had hoped as I just wanted some chemicals to pop in there and be done, but instead we'll stop messing with chemicals all together and just use a little closer to pure water.
I DO still want to know about my test kit though so i can find out if its false readings or whatever. plus i want this post to be a learning tool for anyone else who cant seem to beat the ammonia. thanks!
 
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